Apart from on festival days, you will find the Via Valeria, at the top of Tagliacozzo, a very sleepy street indeed. In the past it was a hive of activity (just read Anne Macdonell’s account of 1907, from ‘In the Abruzzi’) but for many decades now it has been underpopulated, and any shops or bars that were there have long been closed. But a few days ago, I was delighted to find a charming and authentic place to eat right in the heart of this historic area.
La Cantina ‘e Caglinella is a lovely ristoro in a traditional family house that has a great interior and wonderful views over the town, and of the Marsican landscape, from the rear terrace. The homemade and homegrown food is based on family recipes and tastes great! Sisters Sara and Giulia are very welcoming hosts and run the place with the help of their parents. Their main supplier of ingredients is their grandparents, who have sheep, chickens and an abundance of vegetables on their smallholding just a few minutes away at the top of the street. At a time when many Italian restaurants are moving away from their roots, I found La Cantina ‘e Caglinella to be an authentic treat with an ambience to match.
We ate gnocchi with pancetta and zucchini, some lovely salty flatbread made with maize flour, then meatballs and arrosticini with some vegetables, and a bottle of red of course. All for about 50 euros for two. If you drive there, park at the very top of the town, by the church of Santa Maria del Soccorso and walk down the street a few minutes where you will find the ristoro on the right.
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Author: Peter Austin
A shed building, bass playing, wine drinking, mountain loving guy who adores photography and bought a home in Abruzzo 2 decades ago.[br][br]He's also an Associate Member of the Life In Abruzzo cultural association and moderator of the Life in Abruzzo private Fb group
