Agnone’s N’docciata makes for an incredible experience in Italy in December! Anyone in Abruzzo or Rome should make a beeline to see for a Christmas spirit top-up. It may be rare to say at this time of year but one of the best events is free!
Set in the heart of the Molise Apennines, the ‘Ndocciata is a breathtaking spectacle that aspires to UNESCO recognition as an Intangible Heritage of Humanity, I think it deserves it! Rooted in ancient winter solstice rituals and infused with Christian faith, this awe-inspiring tradition celebrates fire’s mystical power—a force of purification, renewal, and light reborn to remind us it is approximately just 90 days till Spring.
Each December, Agnone transforms itself twice into a “river of fire” as it looks back to its roots and the Italic Samnite tribe and hundreds of torchbearers parade through its streets, carrying massive flaming torches. These are known as ‘ndocce in the local dialect, some with a monumental girth of up to 20 torches! These fiery creations are handcrafted from fallen silver fir, with broom sandwiched in between to help them burn more easily. They are arranged to fan out like blazing wings, their crackling flames captivating onlookers of all ages.
The bearers are cloaked in traditional attire synonymous with the pastori (shepherds) of the ‘Abruzzi’ (until 1963 Abruzzo and Molise were one region). Wide-eyed young sons, fathers and grandfathers, march with pride and a twinkly squint as they avoid the blowing tree ash. Their figures are silhouetted against the glowing inferno recreating a scene from a long-ago cherished ritual when the fires were built to call back the sun god and show off strength to a potential new fiancee! In later years they were integrated into the Christian faith and used to light the way to the various churches in Agnone on Christmas Eve.
As the procession winds its way toward Piazza del Popolo, ‘brothers’ come together arranging themselves in a fiery circle and begin spinning, mesmerising just like Whirling Dervishes and the smokey air hums with excitement and reverence. Each fire bearer adds their load to the enormous Falò della Fratellanza (Bonfire of Brotherhood) in Piazza Popoli that unites and connects history, nature, and individuals, whether locals or spectators to one another on a cold winter’s night when elsewhere they are tucked up in front of the TV.
Agnone boasts a rich history as a centre of Samnite culture and was renowned for its defiance against Rome. Over the centuries, it evolved into a thriving medieval town, famed for its bell-making tradition at the ancient Marinelli Foundry, one of the world’s oldest operating artisanal workshops. Of course like all of Italy’s small towns, it faces the problems of depopulation, historically many families left for Canada and Argentina but its high street is full, with no tired or empty shops no mean feat and something many towns can only wish for.
There are plenty of artisan cheese and salami shops to choose from that show a deep pride in local artisan farmers’ products. The famous local cheese, Agnone Caciocavallo is a spun raw milk cow cheese that is typically matured for 8 months, although it can be eaten earlier. If you’re lucky you will find it hung over a grill dripping its bounty to make the best cheese on toast! It’s a gem of a town whose properties do appear to hold their prices when comparing it with many towns in Abruzzo, streets all carefully named, in matching vintage style street signs do make such a difference when walking around!
We had lunch out of town as we wanted to drive through the White Fir Forest and check out Capracotta’s fabled cross-country ski-ing path, sadly, no snow but it was worth visiting for a walk. We loved our lunch at Abete Bianco in Pescopennataro, it’s a short 20-minute drive from Agnone through the Fir Forest.
Whether you are suffering from SAD or just feel the need to be connected to soon-to-come better days, Agnone’s magical spectacle is worth a visit!
Dates
The first weekend after the 8th of December and on the 24th December.
Author: Sam Dunham
Sam is a freelance SEO content creator and IGCSE Geography and English teacher at Istituto Cristo Re in Rome. She also runs the Life In Abruzzo Cultural Association, sharing stories and insights about this captivating region.
Alongside raising a teenager, Sam hosts guests at her family’s traditional home, the Little House of the Firefly in Abruzzo, offering a warm welcome and insider tips on local culture, food, and hidden gems.
