I discovered Nevole di Ortona on a recent educational tour with Passucci International Travel, and tasting them reminded me of the best fruitcake, so good with coffee! They are thin, folded pizzelle, without fruit, made with mosto cotto. Mosto Cotto is an ancient syrup made by slowly reducing freshly pressed grape must until it turns dark, sweet, and aromatic, with a raisin, fig, and caramel flavour. Italians have used it since Roman times, when sugar was not available and grape must reduction was the everyday sweetener. Back then, it was called defrutum or sapa, flavoured food and preserved fruit, and was carried on ships because it kept well. This tradition still feels right for the seaside town of Ortona on the Adriatic.
Though their names sound similar, mosto cotto and vino cotto are very different; vino cotto is a fortified, sweet wine made by fermenting and ageing cooked must, with a mellow taste of dried fruit, spice, and toasted wood, traditionally sipped at celebrations rather than baked into them.
Nevole are so closely tied to Ortona that they have earned a place in the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity Ark of Taste, which protects endangered traditional foods. Local records suggest they started in monastic kitchens and later appeared in noble households, where families ordered intricately engraved irons called ‘ferri da nevole’ to stamp initials or coats of arms into the wafers. These delicate biscuits, scented with orange and spice, were made for feast days, weddings, and religious celebrations. Their circular shape symbolised unity and eternity.
Today, when made with quality mosto cotto from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes, Nevole still capture Ortona’s rich history. Each aromatic bite brings together monastic refinement, peasant creativity, and maritime tradition.
Abruzzo’s Nevole di Ortona | Ancient Grape Must Wafers
Ingredients
- 180 g 180 g Plain Flour (type 00)
- 180 g Durum Wheat (Hard wheat flour)
- 120 ml Mosto Cotto
- 120 ml Extra Virgin Olive Oil
- 1 Orange zest (grated)
- 1/2 tsp Cinnamon
- 1 pinch Optional Anise or Ground Cloves
Instructions
- In a large bowl, combine the two flours, orange zest, and cinnamon, and mix in the olive oil and mosto cotto.
- Cover the dough and let it rest for at least 30 minutes.
- Preheat your ferro da nevole (iron). If you don’t have one, a pizzelle maker or flat waffle iron will also work.
- Shape small walnut-sized balls of dough, place each in the centre of the hot iron, and press firmly. Cook on both sides until the wafer is thin and lightly browned — about 45 seconds per side.
- Transfer to a wire rack to cool, fold across the edges if you want to create the traditional Ortona version; they will harden and become crisp as they cool.
Local Producer Recommendation
To make authentic Nevole, seek out a Mosto Cotto from Abruzzo, ideally made from Montepulciano grapes. Two highly regarded producers include:
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Cantina Collefrisio (Frisa, CH) – Produces Mostocotto from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes, available via on their website.
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Azienda Agricola D’Alessandro (Chieti) – A family producer of traditional mosto cotto and preserves. Available on their website.
- Buy in the US from Masciarelli Formaggi
Author: Sam Dunham
Sam is a freelance SEO content creator and IGCSE Geography and English teacher at Istituto Cristo Re in Rome. She also runs the Life In Abruzzo Cultural Association, sharing stories and insights about this captivating region.
Alongside raising a teenager, Sam hosts guests at her family’s traditional home, the Little House of the Firefly in Abruzzo, offering a warm welcome and insider tips on local culture, food, and hidden gems.
