In the coastal town of Vasto, and across into the Molise region, locals have perfected the art of scapece – pickling calamari, dogfish and skate, preserving the Adriatic’s bounty with a zesty saffron tang that dances on the palate and can be found sold in local markets.
The technique, known as “escabechar,” meaning “to souse,” harks back to ancient preservation methods. Some claim that this tradition is rooted in the “Apicii sauce,” a vinegar and garlic-based recipe invented by Apicius, the famed Roman gourmand and author of ‘De Re Coquinaria’ whilst others Spain at the time of Moor domination, when “escabeche”, was a meat sauce with spiced vinegar and other ingredients.
Many cultures share this culinary practice of pickling seafood beyond Italy and Spain, Nordic countries boast pickled herring, a staple that dates back to the Viking Age. Japan’s tradition of pickling fish, known as Narezushi, began in the 10th century, emphasising how this technique crosses both time and borders, uniting food lovers around the globe.
Scapece or scapec in dialect down in Molise is made with skate or dogfish, calamari or small octopus cut into slices, floured, and fried in olive oil. It’s layered in earthenware containers with boiled white wine vinegar and saffron. In Vasto, a local twist includes fried tropea onions and a generous splash of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wine. The fish should be allowed to marinate for at least 24 hours, if you want to be truly authentic allow it to marinate for a week before eating! The result is a tangy, flavourful dish that blends history and local ingredients.
Vastese & Molise Pickled Calamari, Skate and Dogfish
Ingredients
- 1 kg Skate, Dogfish cleaned and cut into 5cm recctanges or 1 k of cleaned calamari
- Semolina or Regular 00 Flour to dust the fish/seafood before frying
- Olive Oil to fry the fish/seafood
- 1 L White Wine Vinegar
- 1/2 L Trebianno d'Abruzzo
Instructions
- Remove skin, clean and debone fish and cut into rectangular pieces. If using calamari, remove skin and clean
- Dusty in flour, shake off excess and fry in olive oil on both sides. Remove, drain on kitchen paper and add a sprinkle of salt.
- Warm the vinegar, remove from the heat, add the saffron and let it dissolve.
- In a ceramic dish, add the fish and cover with the vinegar solution. If you want to make the Vasto version, add a good splash of Trebbiano d'Abruzzo over the fish too for a real agrodolce flavour that those who may like a sweeter version may prefer. Marinate overnight or if you want to be authentic leave covered in the fridge for a week before serving.
- Serve as an antipasti with salad, a flavoured mayonnaise or sliced on bruschetta. In Autumn serve the calamari version on bruschetta with a lick of pumpkin cream.
- Keep in the fridge for up to 30 days.
Author: Sam Dunham
Sam is a freelance SEO content creator and IGCSE Geography and English teacher at Istituto Cristo Re in Rome. She also runs the Life In Abruzzo Cultural Association, sharing stories and insights about this captivating region.
Alongside raising a teenager, Sam hosts guests at her family’s traditional home, the Little House of the Firefly in Abruzzo, offering a warm welcome and insider tips on local culture, food, and hidden gems.
